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Breast Form FAQ v4.0 Index
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PART I: Introductions, breast cancer and the breast form industry
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0. What's new in this version/wish list for future versions
1. Disclaimers
2. Thanks To...
3. Purpose of the FAQ
4. What is a breast form?
5. History
A. History of the bra
B. History of breast implants
C. History of breast forms
6. Information about breast cancer
7. Breast cancer treatment and recovery options
8. Medical purpose for the breast form industry
9. How soon can you be fitted for a prosthesis after breast surgery?
10. How the transgendered community benefits
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PART II: Materials, Form Types, and Attachable Forms
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11. Materials used in commercial breast forms
(Good points and Bad points)
A. Silicone
B. Rubber/Latex
C. Foam
D. Cotton Batting
12. Why choose a weighted or non-weighted form?
13. Types of forms
A. Symmetrical
1. Triangle (tri-corner)
2. Teardrop
3. Heart shape
B. Asymmetrical
1. Curved teardrop
2. Extended triangle
C. Other types of breast forms and accessories
1. Custom breast forms
2. Attachable forms
3. Thin shell breast forms
4. Attachable nipples
14. More details about Custom breast forms
A. Why choose a custom form?
B. General process of creating a custom form
C. Known custom breast form manufacturers
15. More details about attachable breast forms
A. What are the parts of an attachable form?
B. What are the advantages of this type of form?
C. How are they attached to the chest? (step by step)
1. Shaving the chest area
2. Preparing the skin
3. Marking the position for the supports
4. Attaching the support
5. Attaching the form to the support
6. Detaching the form from the skin support
7. Detaching the support from the chest wall
D. Tips for attachable forms
E. Amoena Luxa breast forms
F. If your breast form is non-attachable...
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PART III: Bras and Forms - How to fit them, get them and keep them
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16. Can people tell if you are wearing a breast form?
17. Do I need a special bra to wear a breast form?
18. A properly fitted bra...
19. How to measure for a bra
A. Before you begin
B. Traditional measurement method
C. The usual bra measuring system may not work
D. Notes
20. Bra band sizing conversion charts from around the world
21. Common bra fitting problems and possible solutions
22. Reasons why it may be difficult to receive a professional
fitting. ***EVERYONE SHOULD READ THIS***
23. Form fitting tips
24. Taking care of your breast forms
25. Breast forms and hot weather
26. How long can I expect my breast forms to last?
27. When your breast form approaches retirement
A. Donating your old breast forms
B. Repairing a damaged form
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PART IV: Appendix A & B - Manufacturers and Retailers
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Appendix A: Manufacturers of commercial breast forms
Appendix B: Retailers and suppliers of breast forms
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PART V: Appendix C - How to make your own forms
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A. Making your own forms
B. Special considerations when creating your own breast form
C. Form 1: Grain and nylons
D. Form 3: Rubber fishing worms and balloons
E. Miscellaneous "make your own form" directions
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A. Making your own forms
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This portion of the FAQ is meant to help those who wish to create their
own breast forms from readily available and inexpensive materials. There are
a variety of reasons why you may wish to create a breast prosthesis; you may
wish to experiment cheaply with a different cup size, or you may just wish to
inexpensively create a realistic breast form before embarking on an expensive
breast prosthesis purchase.
The types of forms you can create using these methods can quickly create
the desired figure, but they are not meant to be permanent nor are they meant
to be replacements for more professionally built forms.
B. Special considerations when creating your own breast form
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* Breast forms are often only as good as the bra that contains them.
Spending extra time getting the right bra size (as versus cup size) can
pay off. See sections 13, 14 and 15 of this FAQ for information on
obtaining a bra that fits well.
* Homemade breast forms often do not hold a particular shape well - their
shape usually comes from the bra that contains them. A bra should be
substantial and give enough coverage so that the desired contours can be
created. Push up bras, see-through lace, and sheer nylon do not work very
well in such situations. Underwired bras provide less movement but
provide better shape.
* Breast forms usually do not lend themselves to wearing see through
garments or producing decolletage - and this can be especially true of
homemade forms. Clothing that covers the bra and chest area completely
such as garments with high necks, longer sleeves, and sweaters can help
hide many flaws in the construction of a homemade form.
* Some methods for creating homemade forms listed use liquids or gelatinous
substances. The handling and maintaining of liquids has some inherent
difficulties not to mention the possible danger of puncture in an awkward
situation.
* The use of nylon stockings as an outer breast form surface is common in
the methods listed. Nylons usually come in a wide variety of shades and
finding an appropriate tint that matches your skin coloration can make
the form blend in better when wearing.
* If you have purchased or constructed an unweighted form (such as a form
with foam, cotton or rubber contents), extra weight can be added using
drapery weights, gunshot, BB's or something similar. This can enhance the
movement and draping characteristics of the form.
[NOTE: Be warned that using weighting material that contains lead is not
recommended for health reasons - heavy metals have a cumulative effect,
and lead and humans generally do not get along in the long run.
C. Breast Form 1 - nylons and seed
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Approximate Cost: 5-10$ per pair
Materials:
* A properly fitting bra (see sections 18 & 19 earlier in the FAQ.)
* 1 pair of knee high nylons, preferably in a shade that closely matches
your skin coloration.
* 1 plastic container for the seed
* An inexpensive plastic funnel to fill the knee-high.
* If needed, a screen or colander with small (about 1/8") holes to sift
a seed mixture.
* 1 pair scissors
* A good quantity of small size rounded seed or other similar substance.
These usually have about the right weight to give the form the correct
movement reactions.
Materials that are good for this purpose are:
- Bird Seed (Use a bag of fine quality bird seed. If needed, a 6 inch
square of 1/8 inch screen is available at hardware stores to sift
the seed mixture to capture only the small round seeds.
- Millet (an edible seed available at most health food stores)
- Quinoa (another edible seed available at most health food stores)
- "Poly pellets" (what they put in some bean bags and beanie babies.)
Found in craft stores or the craft sections of larger general
stores. This substance is waterproof, does not deteriorate and
does not leave behind any residue.
Instructions:
1. Prepare the approximate amount of seed that will be required for
each form. If you are using a mix such as birdseed, you will need to
use a screen or colander to sift it in order to separate everything but
the small, round seeds.
2. Insert a hand in the knee-high and stretch it out to reduce the natural
stiffness of a new nylon.
3. Insert the funnel in the top of the nylon and pour in the correct amount
of seed. Not enough seed in the form can make the bra wrinkle. Too
much grain can make the bra form overflow and look unrealistic.
4. Twist the kneehigh a couple turns, and push the "ball" you have created
through again. Your form will now be 2-ply which won't open up as easily
on you while wearing it. Experiment with the amount of tension you put
on the knee high when you twist it. Having it too loose or too tight is
not good.
5. Now make a slip knot so that it can easily be undone if the amount of
seed needs to be adjusted.
6. The nylon will adjust and stretch over a few days giving a more natural
feel to the form. Because of this do not assume that the form is ready
to go when created. It will feel more and more comfortable and natural
as time goes on.
7. Use scissors to cut off the nylon above the knot leaving only the
stretch nylon stocking with the knot. If the knot is made tight enough
and the correct amount of nylon is left, a perfect "nipple" can be
created.
8. Insert the form into the bra making sure that the slip knot is worn at
the right place to simulate the nipple. The knot should not become
undone in normal use if tied tightly enough.
9. Whether you are making only a single form or a pair of forms, make sure
that balance between your left and right side is about equal and does
not produce an overly lopsided appearance. Given that, note that most
women's breasts are not exactly the same. One is often slightly smaller,
higher or a different shape from its partner.
10. When worn, body heat will help to make the form take the shape of the
bra cup. The form may be worn privately until the nylon has stretched
and the content adjusts itself for a natural look.
Pros of this type of form
* Fairly realistic - passable in low-contact situations
* Has more realistic weight than foam and cotton forms
* The size of the form is easily configurable if it does not fit in a bra
* Cheap. This allows you to have several different sized forms at once.
(I bought some seed to experiment and found millet to be about $.75/lb
and Quinoa was about $2.25/lb)
* Durable. The substances used are not volatile. Only a puncture would
seriously damage it.
Cons of this type of form
* Consistency and feel is not as realistic as silicone, latex, or rubber
* Not waterproof
* Some seed types (such as millet) might have a slight odor or can leave
some residue on clothing. (Not an issue with the poly-pellets)
* Not attachable to the chest
* No built-in nipple (but if you follow the instructions above...)
* Although the bra gives the form its shape, minor bumps or impacts can
temporarily deform the shape slightly
D. Breast Form 2 - Rubber fishing worms and balloons
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Approximate Cost: 10$ each
Materials:
* 1 pair of knee high nylons, preferably in a shade that closely matches
your skin coloration.
* 4 paddle balloons (~$10) These will be about 36 inches or larger when
blown up. They can often be found in flower stores where they have
stuffed animals inside them. When flat they are in the shape of a circle
about 10 inches in diameter. They come in a variety of colors, but a
neutral color will probably work better for this purpose.
* 200 - 4 inch rubber fishing 'wiggle worms'. You can obtain these from
mail order fishing companies like Orvis, or Gander Mountain. They can
also be found in bulk at some K-Mart stores (approx. cost: ~$11) You
may want to buy colors that are neutral or that come closer to your skin
tone (maybe a mix of white and pink 'worms' and mix together until
satisfied?)
* 2 - 3 quart dish soap bottles such as Joy or Dawn. You can use Tupperware
tops, plastic milk containers, or other plastic materials, but the
plastic needs to have some firmness to it so that it does not bend
too much. (One reader noticed that liquid soap/detergent bottles are
no longer made with the shape we are looking for and when I looked, I
agreed. What we are looking for is something sturdy enough in a
rounded-teardrop, rounded-triangle or other general breast form shape,
preferably with some amount of concavity to allow for the shape of your
chest wall. You may need to experiment a bit with this part until you
find something that works well for you.)
Instructions:
* Preparing the stockings and the balloons
1. From the toe of the stockings, measure about 10 inches and cut off
the end.
2. Count out the correct number of rubber 'worms' into a container (one
with a thin opening is preferable.) The quantity of rubber 'wiggle
worms' described above is enough to make two sets of forms. If you
place 40 of the rubber 'worms' in each balloon, you will have about
a B cup. 60 should give about a firm C cup. One reader reported better
texture results with shredding the worms ("worm cole slaw" =)) in a
blender - you might need to add more worms to the mix if you do this,
and you might not even need to add water.
3. Stretch the mouth of the balloon over the container and fill the
balloon with the 'worms'.
4. Fill the balloon with water until all of the rubber worms are covered.
5. Force the air out of the balloon and then tie the top tightly.
* Cutting the plastic
1. If you use the Joy bottle, cut out the two pear shaped indentations
on each side of the bottle. Otherwise, cut a pear shape out of the
plastic so that it will fit over your breast. (slant the narrow
tip of the pear to the outside of each breast.)
2. Make sure the edges are not sharp. If the plastic is thick enough
this should not be a problem, but we wouldn't want to puncture the
water-filled balloon.
* Putting it all together
1. Insert the narrow end of the plastic into the opening of the stocking.
2. Work it all the way to the toe of the nylon stocking.
3. Pull the open end of the stocking down and over the plastic. You
want the opening to be on the outside of your plastic.
4. Carefully insert the balloon. You may have to squeeze it to get
it in.
5. Pull the knot on the balloon out the opening of the stocking. This
will be part of the nipple for the form.
6. Wrap the open end of the stocking over and around the balloon knot
and tie it off using your favorite type of knot (the original author
used a 'half-hitch', but others will work just as well.)
Pros of this type of form
* Fairly realistic - passable in low-contact situations
* Has more realistic weight than foam and cotton forms
* Has more realistic movement than the 'seed and nylons' method because
of the liquid and the balloon on the plastic
* The size of the form is fairly easy to change if it does not fit in a bra
* Cheap. This allows you to have several different sized forms at once
Cons of this type of form
* Consistency, feel and movement is not nearly as realistic as silicone
* Vulnerable to puncture. If this happens, the water contents would leak
out causing a probable distressing situation for the wearer
* Not attachable to the chest
* No built-in nipple (but if you follow the instructions above...)
E. Miscellaneous "make your own form" directions
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Quite a number of people have written to me describing various other
simple solutions for creating their own breast forms. What follows are
descriptions of the methods they have used. I have not tried any of these
solutions myself, so I can't confirm how useful (or not) they are - this
section is listed here to at least give you some ideas if you are attempting
to create your own breast forms. I also don't know if all the materials listed
are considered to be totally safe for use against the skin for long periods of
time - always be sure to confirm this and play it safe!
Please email me if you have suggestions for improving any of these
instructions, if you have experimented with altering any of these methods, or
you have ideas for other make-your-own forms that are not listed here.
Also, here are a couple interesting links I found about creating your own
breast forms:
- http://www.geekbabe.com/annie/feature/forms/
- http://www.geocities.com/WestHollywood/Village/8517/tips/tip04.html
1. Water
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It looks like plain old water may be the cheapest solution out there,
aside from the biggest "gotcha" that you could always have a rather damp
accident at a time when you least need it.
"Here is a quick, effective and very cost-efficient breast form. It's what
I and many others I've shared this secret with use.
Materials:
- 4 non-lubricated thick condoms (maybe gold coin or other thick quality
condom.)
Steps:
1. Using two of the condoms, unroll them, one inside the other.
2. Blow the condoms up like a balloon in order to stretch them out for
about five minutes.
3. Let the air out.
4. Fill the inner balloon with hot water (as the water fills the condom,
it weighs it down, creating a very round shape at the bottom.)
5. Fill it past the desired size/water volume.
6. Push out excess water until you have reached the water volume you desire,
and all the excess air.
7. Tie the condoms shut in a double knot.
Notes:
- Padded bras may support the form better than a regular bra will.
- You could sew a sort of prosthesis pocket into your bra with fabric
or even nylons to hold this form.
- The weight of this type of form may hold excess skin in place to
create cleavage...just pull excess skin towards the middle of your
chest and experiment."
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"It is very simple to use large 1 quart plastic baggies and fill them with
water. This requires a full coverage bra. You can close a baggie with a
twist-tie, but it will leak about one droplet per hour. It's probably a
good idea to double-bag them, sealing each bag separately. This prevents
them from breaking when you relocate them to the optimal position.
When you install them into a bra, I typically like to put the twistie
part up higher with the bag ends hanging down sideways, like a triangle
with the twistie at the top and the ends of the bag on either side of
your chest wall (one end near the arm pit, one end near the center of
your chest). Make sure the baggie is nowhere near full - about 50% full
(with all air squeezed out) is optimal.
If you do this, and if you wear a full-coverage bra, you will get
absolutely the most realistic look possible. There will be a "tail" that
goes under the arm, and if the bra has a natural shape, you will get
exactly the same shape as a genetic girl. It will also "jiggle" much
like a genetic girl, so be careful with things like horseback riding,
etc."
2. Jello
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I guess this person took the slogan "watch it wiggle, see it jiggle" very
seriously! This person mentions that the shape is not very realistic, but
that is just a matter of creating a mold of the proper shape (no, I don't
really have any good ideas about that - welcome to suggestions!) You
might also consider simple hair styling gel for a solution like this too -
it's cheap and has a fairly decent consistency. Gel especially will have
a tendency to slowly "flow" to fill the shape of the bra cup containing
them, which is probably your aim.
"I have been experimenting with jelly or as American's call it jello. I
made a single breast form in a plastic bowl, about the shape of the
desired item, but the bottom part was flat, but hey what the heck I was
only playing around at the time. I placed two pints of water and three
packs of jelly mixture (over here we get it in rather wobbly preset jelly
which we add hot water to and allow to dissolve then cool to set it
again), some places it's a powder I think. Anyway, having added the water
and jelly, I added arrowroot powder to the mixture, which thickens it
even more!
The result, having poured the contents into a plastic bag, then into the
possible mould, is a fairly good first attempt if I say so myself. The
shape isn't right either, but having tried it in a bra, it's feeling
nice and snug!"
3. Silicone Caulking or Lubricant
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Several people turned to variations of the filling used for expensive
breast forms: silicone. I don't know how realistic these feel, how safe
the materials are, or how well the forms hold up over time, so please
let me know.
"Materials:
- Three 12" helium grade balloons
- $1.50 electricians silicone wire lubricant
- A pencil with new eraser
Steps:
1) Pre-stretch the balloons by blowing them up to 12" diameter
2) Using the eraser end of the pencil insert one balloon into another
3) Insert the 3rd balloon into the two
4) Force the wire lube into the innermost balloon
a) Allow excess air to escape
b) Cleanup is easy with a wet cloth
c) Do not release the innermost balloon until tied off
5) Tie off innermost balloon with the lube in it and clean up excess
6) Inflate middle balloon enough for innermost balloon to drop inside
7) Allow all excess air to escape then tie off middle balloon
8) Inflate the outer balloon enough to drop tied off balloons inside.
Release all excess air then tie off the last balloon."
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"I have used a couple of latex condoms and a few tubes of latex caulk.
Using a caulk gun, unroll the condom and insert the end of the caulk tube
into the condom and fill the condom (be sure to support condom so it
doesn't fall and burst.) I use about two tubes of caulk per form and
caulk can be bought for about $2 a tube. The tip of condom makes a
fairly good nipple and caulk will firm up over time. Although they cannot
be attached they are pretty convincing under clothing, have some weight
and they look fairly natural."
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"I began with foam to achieve a form shape as you have described. I then
sculpted a positive form image in plaster and impressed the form into
liquid plaster to achieve a negative form to be used as the cast.
Next I used standard silicon caulking to line the cast in thin layers,
allowing each to dry with proper ventilation and gradually developing the
flexibility I desired. I then created another positive form in foam,
slightly smaller than the interior dimensions of the positive silicon
form, then inserted the foam to the silicon."
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Please send any comments, ideas or corrections to bformfaq at blooberry.com